My latest masterpiece is complete. Inspired by illustrations of 14th century noblewoman’s dress, adapted for modern ease-of-wear.
Does anyone else ever feel rushed for time in a dress that takes 10 minutes and a second-set of hands to lace up or get out of? For those certain events were time is of the essence or for all those faires when I need to get dressed in a parking lot, I’m getting a little tired of waiting for someone else to lace me up. Therefore I’ve set about sewing a small wardrobe based on wrap-dresses.
Historical references for wrap dresses are non-existent, but the angel-sleeves, neckline, and skirt shape are based in reality. The wrap front is from a sexier fantasy genre.
The dress is made in suiting twill which the online salesperson talked me into over broadcloth when I showed them the pattern looking for color and weight suggestions. I have mixed feelings about the recommendation now that the dress is finished. The fabric is absolutely gorgeous; thick and sturdy with a heavy drape. However, the dress weighs about ten pounds. Broadcloth may have looked slightly less regal, but it would have worn easier and lighter. This dress wears me.
To cut weight I only lined the sleeves, the neck, and the two front-panels. The front is lined in the same twill while the sleeves have a black and gold jacquard in the inside. I plan to make a collar accessory from the remnants of the sleeve linings. The look will also need a veil and headrail to be complete.
I wrote a few weeks ago about how I was spending a lot of time hand-embroidering the sleeves of this dress to make the project more special. I challenged myself to make both shoulders the same mirrored design with considerable success. Free-hand and everything. No hoop! The fabric is stiff enough, and the design is on a curved seam, so no hoop could be used, nor was it needed. I could have carried the design through to the neckline and hem if I wanted to never finish the project, but considered that outer-layers are just as likely to cover any embroidery on such an already deep V.
The dress is tied with a lucky ribbon that I already had on hand in the perfect color. Pockets were a must-add to this pattern and I made them huge since this fabric can support a lot of weight. I thought that I would need gussets under the arms but I forgot to add them in on the first sleeve, so I decided to do a side-by-side comparison. I basted one sleeve no gusset, the other with a gusset, and found that I didn’t need it to achieve a reasonable range of motion, and the gusset added more bulk than this bodice could afford. No gussets in the end! A good pattern for that fact.
